The Burn and the Garden Route

The burn happened on a night before we were supposed to go into Monwabisi Park. We found out when we met downstairs in the morning that the community centre, youth centre, creche, soup kitchen, clinic and guest house, as well as the new back packers lodge that was under construction had all gone up in flames. This caused a wide variety of emotions, from anger and dispair to the desire to rebuild everything better than before. The cause of the fire was never actually discovered, but it was "determined" to be a candle tipping over, highly unlikely in a time of political unrest that a candle would demolish 80 shacks and buildings and render hundreds of people homeless. Part of the reason the fire was such a disaster was the flamibility of the construction materials of the shacks and the inability for fire trucks to access the site quickly. By the time the fire was put out, too much damage was done.

Even more disturbing is the fact that even now, the fire department has no desire to implement longer hoses or more fire safety plans, but instead stated that people could just use fire extinguishers. Di and Buyiswa have both been very strong throughout this process however, and believe that everything can be built back, stronger, more fire proof and better than ever. The burn site is difficult to see, the work of 10 years went up in flames, along with many peoples homes and livlihoods.

Now our projects have evolved to an Integrated Planning idea where we work to rebuild all of these buildings to be environmentally friendly and maximally effective. We are using our design and engineering skills to work on plans that we can show to city officials and potential donors so that they are more willing to approve the projeect and donate money. It is difficult, however, when our advisors sometimes disagree with our sponsors and there is a lapse in communication.

Our last free weekend in Cape Town was spent travelling the Garden Route, the N2 Highway up the coast from Cape Town to the Eastern Cape. It continues further up the Wild Coast, but we stopped at the eastern cape in the Tsitsikamma National Park. We left on Friday night and stayed in a backpackers lodge in Storms River. It was a long drive, but scenic, because our hired minibus driver drove way below the speed limit. We arrived at 1 am, and slept in triple bunk beds. We woke up early the next morning and travelled 20 minutes to the Bloukrans bridge, home to the highest commercial bungee jump in the world.

Walking out to the bridge was terribly scary. You travel on a narrow catwalk, and wear a safety belt. Before travelling out, they weigh everyone and write a label on their hands with this number. Luckily, its in kilos, so no one could tell how much anyone else weighed. Once out to the centre of the bridge, (some people ziplined there instead of walking), it was like a club. They encourage everyone to jump, and 4 people form our group did. At the last minute, I decided to... mostly because they told me that statistically it was the safest place in Africa, and because everyone said it wasn't as scary as they thought.

It was intense, falling for 8 seconds... a total of 203 m. But the whole process, bounces included is over in less than a minute. Bouncing was the worst... you're weightless and you arent sure when the drop will start again. That is incredibly scary. But the falling itself was just... fast. When you come ot a stop, someone is sent down on a rope to retreive you. I grabbed his legs and counted loudly the seconds until we reached the top of the bridge again. Hanging upside down waiting for him to arrive was by far the scariest part.

After the bridge adventure, we visited a water fall zipline, and did a zipline tour. That was more fun, and far less scary. Overall, the adventure weekend was a success and we toured the beautiful garden route of south africa.

Wine Tours and Table Mountain

Friday night was fun. We went to a rugby club called the Springbok (which is South Africa's rugby mascot) and it was a good time, finally a club with people our age! We also tried absinthe, which is entertaining to drink. You pour a wine glass about a third full with it, and hold a spoon filled with sugar over the glass with a little bit of the liquid in it, then light the spoon on fire. When the sugar carmelizes, you stir it in, blow the flame out and drink the glass.

This is a picture of the first (and best) winery we went to in Stellenbosch.

The wine tour on saturday took us around Stellenbosch, to 4 different wineries. The first one was the most beautiful, and most stereotypical plantation. De Leuwen Jagt was the former name of it, which means the Lion Hunt in Afrikaans. We sat at tables on a lawn that overlooked the entire vinyard, and had mountains in the background. It was gorgeous. The next two wineries we went to were more modern, and very chic, but also beautiful. I don't like wine very much. So, all day I bought one bottle of dessert wine because it tastes like candy. It was a fun trip, and we got to check out the Cape Dutch architecture and enjoy all sorts of wine. We stopped in Stellenbosch for lunch, near the university and had some delicious food.

When we got home, a bunch of us took a taxi to Camp's Bay beach and watched the sun go down- the perfect ending to our day. We then went out for sushi, and since I hate the way seaweed tastes I got raw fish on rice which was much better. I had pad thai with it which I also enjoyed. I'm getting better about new foods.

This is a picture of the sunset on Camps Bay beach.

Sunday was Table Mountain day. We went to bed early so we could get up at 7 to get on the mountain and be done with it before noon. Table mountain is the wierdest mountain I've ever seen. We went to the botanical gardens then climbed up Skeleton Gorge to one of the highest points. We met a group of South African climbers who warned us not to take the cliff side route since it was difficult and made it seem like you could fall off the mountain. Having heard that from our friends who had climbed the week before, we opted for the resivour route.

This was a poor life choice. The boys who had the map kind of ditched us, and I ended up climbing with Kelly, Steph and Marcella. We walked past lakes with sandy beaches and red water, on the top of a mountain!!! It was extremely weird. After we passed them, we saw people laying out tanning, on top of table mountain in their bathing suits by the water. We kept hiking, and reached another summit, thinking it was the last one. It was not, and we headed downhill looking for the cable car lift to take us down. We climbed several summits this way. And by climbed I mean climbed cliff faces via the laddars that were bolted into them, or climbed along the cliff using chains bolted into it. We didn't know that we'd accidentally taken the advanced challenge trail. Poor choice. Basically we ran out of water, got scared, and luckily we decided to keep going, and as soon as we made it over the last ridge, we saw the cable car and restaurant off in the distance. Matt was waiting for us with chilled bottles of water, and we ate lunch and took pictures. We took the cable car down, which was also scary, considering that it had no glass windows on half of it. Oh dear.


This is a picture of the lake on top of Table Mountain. Wierd. You can see the city below in the distance.


After that rough morning, we went to Camps Bay, ate Kauai and spent the day at the beach. Glorious. Although the water was freezing.

Today was some what productive, we went to the Park and talked with the co researchers about our final project, and worked with them on gathering life stories of people. I went with three of them and we talked to people in about five houses and took pictures, and asked them information about themselves. The insides of the shacks are sometimes nice, you'd think it was a tiny regular home from the inside.

This is a picture from the look out station on Table Mountain, overlooking Camps Bay and the Atlantic.

Staying Optemistic in Monwabisi

Sometimes, this is an extremely difficult task. Its hard to see the discrepancy between the millionaires play ground and the shacks, and wonder how people can not understand the problem. This picture is a view from Signal Hill, where they fire a cannon every day at noon, and you can hear it throughout the main parts of the city. We've had some good, and interesting dining experiences while in Cape Town, yesterday we went to a fancy Thai restaurant, ordered dinner for 7 and two bottles of wine, and the final cost was 800 rand, or roughly eighty dollars, including gratuity. It was delicious, and I'm going to have to try more Thai food in the future. Most nights we watch movies because the night life is pretty slow, and there isn't much to do that doesn't involve going to bars. We have a projector screen we set up on the porch, and watch tv shows and movies when its nice out.

The Co-Researcher project has been working out really well. All of the project groups enjoy working with them, and we're beginning to become friends. I can have a small introductory conversation in Xhosa, consisting of Hello, How are you? Good, and you? etc. Matt is working on an interactive audio dictionary to put online so that we can all learn the basics and maybe some additional interesting words. The co researchers love laughing at our attempts though, but they are always willing to help. As a group, we've decided that we are most likely combining the efforts of all the groups and making a publishable atlas of current situations and possible redevelopment strategies for the park. along with a human component, consisting of photos of people and their life stories. It will be a source of pride for members of the community and will also be appealing to possible donors to the cause and useful for the government. We've learned that in many cases, the civil services of Cape Town have no idea of the problems with bathrooms and electricity, and the photos the energy and water teams have taken are helping them realize they exist.

Yesterday, I went with Marco to the public library again so he could work on the contact database and I could work on the graphics of the communication network, which our advisors have pushed. It was productive, and on the way back we had an interesting experience with a cab driver. When he found out we were Americans, he immediately asked what we thought of Obama. We replied, and he went on about how he had wished McCain had won because Obama had no respect or experience, and was not militaristic and would have no control. He also said that South Africa does not have an active armed force, which I hadn't known, and that since they eliminated it the country had fallen into chaos. This is the opposite end of the spectrum from our sponsor, Di, who was estatic that a black man was leading the United States. So there is a wide range of opinions on the matter, as there are in the US.

A scary incident today reminded us all that we aren't perfectly safe here, when one of the students got very sick quickly and couldn't breathe. He was with co researchers in the middle of the settlement, and we didn't know where our advisors were, as they had also left with co researchers. Luckily, they were able to get him back to the Indlovu Centre and an electrician was nearby with a car, and he was rushed to the hospital. But, since Di was not there today, we have no transportation other than Fachme. (yes thats our bus drivers name, and YES we make jokes about it all the time. Even our advisors love to pronounce his name strategically.) Hopefully he will be fine, but its scary. This is the same guy who a woman threatened to kill a few days ago when he wouldn't give her cigarette money because we are always strictly instructed never to give to beggars and to tell them we are giving our time and hard work. It has been a long week, and the weekend is much needed, and I'm excited for the wine tour at Stellenbosch tomorrow.

Also, there is a famous around the world sailboat race at the V and A water front now for the next few weeks. I think we'll be checking it out soon.